Wine is produced in the departments of Savoie, Haut-Savoie, Ain and Isere, an area roughly the same latitude as Burgundy. The vineyards of the Jura are centered on Arbois, 100 km east of Beaune. The soil here is fairly chalky, with some limestone and marl at Chateau Chalon. The vines are planted in the foothills of the Jura range, with a south or southwest aspect. The climate is continental with very cold winters.
The area is known for Chardonnay, known locally as Melon d’Arbois, and is often blended with a local grape, Savagnin. Savagnin has a thick skin, and is consequently high in extract, with deep colour and a nutty aroma. Other regional grapes include the red Trousseau, Gamay and Mondeuse, as well as the whites Poulsard, Aligote, Chasselas, Rousette and the tart Jacquère.
The Savoie appellations controlleés or ACs may have a commune name attached, such as Abymes, Apremont, Ripaille or Chignin. Red, rose and dry styles are made, as well as lightly sparkling whites. Crépy is another white, made from the Chasselas grape near lake Geneva. Roussette de Savoie is made from the Rousette grape. Reds in the area (such as Bugey) can be made from Mondeuse and Gamay.
The Jura is most well known for AC Château Chalon, which is the name of a commune and not a single producer. This is a vin jaune, or wine from the late harvest Savignan grape that is fermented and aged without topping off (“on the ullage”) for at least six years, during which time it develops flor – the same type of yeast that occurs in Sherry, that covers the surface of the wine and prevents its exposure to oxygen.
Arbois is another Jura AC, with whites made from a blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin, rosé from Poulsard, Trousseau and Pinot, and red wine from Pinot Noir. Other Acs in the area include Côtes de Jura, where another specialty is made – vin de paille, where the grapes are dried on straw mats, pressed around the New Year and aged in cask for two years. Finally, L’Etoile produces whites from the same grape blend (often sparkling), vin jaune and vin de paille.
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