Chardonnay is among the world’s most popular white wine grapes. One of the reasons for this is that it is very easy to grow, although it buds early, so it can be susceptible to frost damage. It is also relatively susceptible to viral infection, which is a particular problem in Burgundy. Chardonnay can be fairly vigorous, a tendency that can work against ripeness. Proper rootstock choice and canopy management techniques can help keep this in check.
Since extract is typically high, Chardonnay gives medium to full-bodied wines, and since sugar levels can be high, Chardonnay can give potentially high alcohol. It also loses its acidity quickly at the end of the growing cycle. In regions such as Chablis, the acid balance is perfect, but in many warmer climates, acidity needs to be added to the wine to preserve balance.
Chardonnay is a grape with a fairly thick skin that gives wine of a fairly deep lemon yellow color in many cases. It is a variety that will often reflect a smoky minerality from the terroir on the nose, but in general it shows a fairly neutral fruit character, ranging from granny smith apples in Chablis to honeydew melon in slightly warmer climates, and tropical fruit such as pineapple in regions such as Napa Valley and South East Australia.
Barrel fermentation and maturation can be used, and wood tannins are sometimes present. Malolactic fermentation (MLF) is often employed, which causes the development of diacetyl, an ester that gives the wine a buttery character. Battonage and sur-lie aging can also be used to give wines a leesy aroma and flavor. Most Chardonnays are dry white wines in still or sparkling styles, although one or two dessert styles are produced.
Sauvignon Blanc is another well-known white grape. While not as widespread as Chardonnay it is found all over the globe, from New Zealand to California to the Loire Valley and beyond. It produces wine that is fresh and aromatic, showing aromas of fresh mown hay and citrus notes (particularly grapefruit) on the nose. Another common descriptor is referred to as gooseberry by some and cat’s pee by others. On the palate, Sauvignon Blanc typically has crisp acidity, light to medium body and moderate alcohol.
It is a vigorous vine, which can produce too much foliage, leading to unripe green aromas. Fully reductive (oxygen-free) handling is common, with SO2 and absorbic acid used to preserve the fruit. Some California and New Zealand winemakers use oak, although MLF is usually avoided.
Sémillon is a grape that (like Chardonnay) gives wine that is fairly high in alcohol and extract, but fairly neutral on the nose. This means wine that is rich and has an almost waxy, lanolin texture but one without a pronounced aroma. The wine can oxidize easily, and shows an affinity to oak aging and to blending.
In Bordeaux, Sémillon is used both for Sauternes and white Graves. It is as Sauternes that Sémillon reaches its high point. It is usually (but not always) blended with Sauvignon Blanc. The Sémillon takes botrytis well, giving the honeyed character so typical of this wine. It also brings length and breadth to the wine, while Sauvignon Blanc gives the acidity and the herbal and citrus notes in the nose. The best Sauternes are deep golden in color, with pronounced aromas of ripe tropical fruit, honey, butterscotch, biscuits and a certain leafy note that is almost bitter that comes from the botrytis.
Riesling is another of the classic white varieties. It buds late, ripens late and crops well. Yields are higher than for many other types – in Germany, the average yields are 70 – 110 hl/ha. This represents a fourfold increase over the last 80 years, according to Jancis Robinson. Riesling can also ripen to high sugar levels and still retain very crisp balancing acidity. The acidity can often remain between 10 – 15 grams per liter.
The grape produces a wide variety of styles that are almost always light in color in their youth. It is an aromatic variety, showing floral and peach fruit with hints of petrol with age. On the palate, it is often light-bodied, with high acidity, low alcohol, and a long finish.
Chenin Blanc is characterized by high acidity, high extract and good ageability. Typical Chenin aromas include melon, honey, flowers, apple, peach and apricot with a floral edge. Wines develop “wet wool” and lanolin aromas in maturity.
Pinot Gris or Grigio is a mutation of the Pinot Noir grape that has relatively deeply colored berries that can vary from pink to blue. It is commonly vinified as a white wine, but pink versions are not uncommon. The best Pinot Grigio is high in extract & alcohol, with balanced acidity. The fruit character is often quite neutral, although some show a ripe, spicy floral fruit character. Alsatian versions can be very full bodied – this is the wine that Alsatians have with roast goose and other full-odied dishes.
Pinot Bianco (like Pinot Grigio) is a relative of Pinot Noir. It is relatively high in alcohol, extract and body. It has better acidity than Pinot Grigio, and shares its neutral fruit character, with vague appley, floral notes. Arneis produces medium bodied wine, with moderately high alcohol and low acidity. It can give ripe pear aromas with a floral edge. In Gavi, Cortese gives wine that is light-bodied, with crisp acidity, moderate alcohol and a steely lime fruit character. Some producers are experimenting with oak.
Ugni Blanc (known in Italy as Trebbiano) often gives neutral, characterless wine with high acidity, medium alcohol and body and a short finish. It is used throughout the Rhone and Midi to stretch the blend. It is also the main grape of the Cognac region of Charente and is very widespread throughout the southwest of France. Trebbiano is used for better or worse throughout Italy, and it comes into its own blended with Malvasia and air dried to produce Vin Santo. This wine is aged without topping up (on its ullage), to produce a typical Italian dessert specialty.
There are many different type of the Muscat grape. The finest wines come from the Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains, known as Moscato d’Asti. This is the most widely planted grape in Piedmont, and is used for both Asti and Moscato d’Asti, which is lower pressure and higher quality. The grape has small berries, thick skin and low yields. It produces produces wine that is low in alcohol, often sweet and shows pronounced grapy aromas.
Gewurztraminer is very aromatic, with a spicy bouquet of rose water and litchee. The wine has good body, fairly low alcohol and low acidity. This is a wine that ages well. Pinot Gris has a relatively neutral nose, showing notes of honey and smoke. The wine can have good acidity if picked early, but often is broad and flat on the palate with moderately high alcohol and fullish body.
Wines produced from Viognier typically show deep color, full body, low acidity and pronounced aroma of honeysuckle blossoms, apricot, peach and pear. These wines are structurally and texturally similar to Chardonnay – medium to full in body, with a silky mouthfeel. Oak is often used for aging. The wines from this grapes traditional home of Condrieu show considerably more depth and nuance than those of other regions, even those like the Southern Rhone where the climate is fairly similar. Those from the New World can be very well made, but they seldom equal the best from Condrieu.
Marsanne and Rousanne are both grown throughout the Rhone, but above all in the North. Rousanne is the finer of the two, but is more difficult to grow. The vines naturally yield fewer grapes. The wine produced from the blend of these is fairly neutral on the nose, with an aroma of glue & almonds in youth, deepening with mineral and lanolin notes. The wine is deeply coloured, high in extract and alcohol, with a long, elegant finish.
Alvarinho is a top quality grape, which gives wine high in alcohol, extract and acidity that has citrus/mineral fruit character. Arinto is used in the south because it retains acidity well and gives wine that is aromatic and characterful. Bical is used in Bairrada. It is also valued for its good acidity. The fruit character is relatively neutral. Fernao Pires (AKA Maria Gomes) is very widely planted, giving wine with a peppery aroma.
Gruner Veltliner gives a wine that is medium bodied, with moderate to high alcohol and acidity. On the nose, it is relatively neutral, showing a characteristic spicy aroma with notes of white pepper. The best examples are capable of long aging, and are sometimes made with residual sugar.
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