The Cognac region today is fairly good size – at 73,000 ha it is nearly half as big as the vineyard area of all Australia. This size, however, has been steadily waning over the last 35 years. In pre-phylloxera times, the area was nearly four times this much at approximately 270,000 ha, but due to phylloxera, World War and economic depression, the total planted area was reduced by at least 95%. Between 1920 and 1970, the area slowly regained vigor, attaining approximately 110,000 ha by 1970
The area is composed of six subregions, which are called in descending order of importance Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and Bois Ordinaires.
Grande Champagne (11,000 ha) is the region just south of the Charente river, and is considered the finest of the subregions. The word “Champagne” refers to the level of chalkiness in the soil, and this is the main factor in determining quality in each subregion. Chalk provides an admirable water delivery system for the roots of the vines and it is rich in calcium carbonate. In addition, pieces of chalk on the surface of the soil absorb the heat of the sun during the daytime and radiate it back at night.
Other elements that play a role in imparting quality to the eaux de vie include is the distance from the sea, since those regions that are too close to the sea can take on an iodine taste, and the exposition of the hillsides. Grande Champagne is the region with the most hills, most of which have a southern exposure that helps the grapes reach a fine maturity.
All of these factors help to produce strong, full-bodied eau de vie that are fine, aromatic, and suited to long aging. These eaux de vie come into maturity at approximately 15 years of age and can age for 150 years.
According to M. Derain who is responsible for eaux de vie management and supply at Hennessy, a cognac is not necessarily good just because it is from Grande Champagne, yet all of the greatest cognacs come from this region.
Petite Champagne is also south of the Charente for the most part, and is an area of 17,000 ha. The soil is still chalky, but the layer of chalk is less compact than that of Grande Champagne. This is a region that gives eaux de vie that are less long-lived than those of Grande Champagne, but that are more elegant and fruity. They tend to reach maturity at seven to eight years of age, although this is dependant on many factors, including the specific vineyard site where the base wines were produced, the type of aging they receive, and the characteristics of the vintage when they were produced.
Borderies is a small area of 4,500 ha north of the river and just to the west of Grande Champagne. Here the soils and expositions are mixed, often bearing a high percentage of flint. This region produces cognacs that are extremely aromatic and perfumed, with a fine, round, light character and floral and violet notes. These cognacs reach maturity before the others. Martell is fond of the Borderies cognacs.
Fins Bois is a large area (33,000 ha), completely surrounding the first three. Here the soils are clay over hard limestone, and the topography is much more flat and less exposed to the south. The cognacs here are generally light, floral, fruity, and crisp, and do not require the same amount of aging as those noted above. For this reason they are often used in the youngest blends.
Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires are outlying regions that are generally considered unsuited to the production of fine cognac, since the soil is a mixture of sand and clay and the sites are too close to the ocean, and often produce eaux de vie with the taste of iodine. Approximately 12,000 ha are planted in these areas.
|
Wine Regions of the World
