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Soju
This category of spirit is the number one distilled spirit in the world both by volume and by value. Korean Soju has been distilled for centuries, and there are many types and subvarieties. Soju is the national drink of the Korean working man, and as such has sometimes struggled with a down-market image, although the affordability accounts for its popularity in export markets, even the difficult Japanese market. This inexpensive soju is made by diluting and flavoring neutral alcohol, and this accounts for a high proportion of the market share. It is referred to as “diluted soju”, and can be no more than 35% ABV.
Soju distilled directly from grain is referred to as “distilled soju”. It can be made from rice, sweet potatoes, barley, soba, tapioca and wheat, and is often bottled between 20 – 45% ABV. This type of spirit is often distilled in a column still, and is pleasantly floral, slightly fruity, but lacking in a really pronounced aroma.
Shochu
Japanese produce two types of shochu. One is column-stilled to a high purity and then cut with water. This shochu (sometimes called korui shochu) is inexpensive and often sweet and highly flavored.
Another type is distilled in pot stills by small scale artisan producers. The pot still and careful techniques employed ensure that this spirit has character and a great depth of flavor. There are several subcategories, including Honkaku (Otsu-rui) – 14th C, one ingredient, one distillation. This category was until recently referred to as otsurui (or honkaku, or authentic) shochu
This is produced by steeping rice or barley in water to release the starch and then cultivating the koji or mold that will saccharify the starch. Water is added to produce a mash, and this mash is fermented. There are three types of koji – white, yellow and black. The yellow koji (also used for sake) is sensitive to temperature and other factors, making it difficult to work with, although it imparts great character. Black koji is less sensitive, and produces a richly-flavored result. White koji is the easiest to use and gives the lightest, cleanest flavors.
In the next step, the main ingredient is steamed and added to the fermented mash. Ingredients include rice, sweet potatoes (imo-shochu), wheat (mugi-shochu), soba, kokutou (sugar cane), kasutori or corn, sesame seeds, squash, or carrots. A second fermentation with this main ingredient is then conducted to produce a sort of “second generation mash” called the moromi. The moromi is then distilled once to produce the shochu. The fact that they are only distilled once leads to their greater aromatic character.
Rice shochu is produced in sake producing regions, and Kumamoto prefecture is well known for this type. Barley shochu, produced notably in the Nagasaki precture, is more neutral in character, although it is often cask-aged to impart more character.
Sweet potato shochu has a strong flavor. Kagoshima and Mayozaki prectures are particularly well known for this product, although it is produced all over Japan.
Awamori from Okinawa is distilled from long grain Thai rice, not brewed. The second fermentation is not carried out for this shochu.
Baijiu
Baijiu (“white spirit”), or shaojiu is the Chinese equivalent of soju or shochu. It is normally distilled from sorghum with other grains added in, and rice, wheat, barley, millet, and a type of grain known as “Job’s Tears” can also be used. Baijiu is typically distilled to 40 – 60% ABV, and some of the heads and tails are left in with the heart, giving this an intensely heady, slightly dirty aroma
There are different types of baijiu, classified by their aroma. “Sauce fragrance” is very aromatic, with notes of fresh fruit and decomposition. “Thick fragrance” is sweeter, and uses a koji-like mold for the fermentation. “Light fragrance” has an aroma vaguely reminiscent of nail polish, while the lighter “rice fragrance” has a more lactic note. “Honey fragrance” is sweet, and “layered fragrance” is roughly a combination of above. There are also flavored or aromatized baijiu, and there is a great deal of regional variation
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Wine Regions of the World
